Australian Fashion Week opened yesterday in a comical riot of colour, writes Janice Breen Burns.
THEY'VE conjured up dinosaurs and mermaids to explain the process behind their frocks. They've evoked Paleolithic rainforests and tribal sacrifices to throw a little light on the art of dressing, which is, roughly translated flamboyant, self-expressive, riotous, if you like, or, all of the above.
Of all the designers working in Australia's industry, Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales are the most likely to silence fashion's "it's not rocket science" and "people are dying" detractors. They do it with joy and their label, Romance Was Born.
Yesterday, for example, Plunkett and Sales opened Australian Fashion Week with their spring/summer 2012-13 show inspired by the Marvel Comics archive. It was clever and silly, gob-smackingly colourful and sparkly.
Models were made up with cartoon eyes and upswept licks of bright orange hair. They modelled clothes that can take your breath away but, most were so simply, silkily conceived with all their sparkly, colourful "otherness" concentrated in Biff! Pow! Sock! patterned Marvel hero prints or crushed crystal or sequinned or shivering stick bead "fur" surfaces that even a nana could wear them. (OK, not the graphic skin-fit Lycra jumpsuits. Or perhaps the showgirl satin onesies.) Fashion Week's bloggers, PRs, editors, buyers and assorted Precious Young Things who had tottered in their wedges and heels and shaggy chub coats onto a pier and up three rickety flights of stairs in a disused warehouse at Walsh Bay on Sydney's choppy harbour to see the show left smiling and cooing about the gorgeousness of it all.
"Such fun!" said Jenny Fuchs, buyer for US e-tail fashion giant, Shopbop.com. "Especially the sequinned gorilla arms."
David Jones' fashion director David Bush said Plunkett and Sales were "darlings" capable of the most extraordinary flights of imagination.
British fashion blogger Susie Bubble already knew them well: "They can evoke another time."
Backstage after the show, media and well-wishers pressed in around the incongruous young duo shy Plunkett with her orange hair dyed to match the models' and the earnest, quietly spoken Sales.
"We've been dreaming this since last year," Plunkett said between photo demands and a rain of congratulatory kisses. "We kept thinking about how powerful colour is and we wanted people to get that."
They did, with bells on, making Romance was Born another hard act to follow. Twelve more brands did, however, with extravagant, back-to-back shows on the hour before the end of day one.
Gail Sorronda, Gary Bigeni, Camilla, Manning Cartell and Ginger & Smart were among the most memorable. Buyers including Vikki Kavanagh from Harvey Nichols in London and global e-tailers Shopbop, my-wardrobe and Net-A-Porter picked their way carefully through the schedule keeping their eyes, ears and options open.
"[Australia] is viewed as an emerging market at home," said Kavanagh, who represents denim and contemporary categories at Harvey Nichols, and already stocks brands such as Sass & Bide, Willow and Finders Keepers.
On her shopping list was Manning Cartell "I really like the look of that" and a bag of other brands that shall remain nameless until their potential is nutted out. "You'll have to wait."
Australian Fashion Week continues today with another packed schedule including shows by Zimmermann, Talulah, Michael Lo Sordo, Magdalena Velevska and Jayson Brunsdon.
Frequently Asked Questions about this Article…
What kicked off Australian Fashion Week and what was the overall vibe investors should note?
Australian Fashion Week opened with a riot of colour and theatrical shows, led by Romance Was Born’s bold, Marvel-inspired spring/summer 2012–13 collection. The event was highly visual and playful, drawing media, buyers and international e-tailers — a useful signal that Australian designers are attracting global attention.
Who are Romance Was Born and what made their spring/summer 2012–13 show stand out?
Romance Was Born is the label by designers Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales. Their spring/summer 2012–13 show was inspired by the Marvel Comics archive, featuring cartoon-eye make-up, bright orange hair, sequinned and crystal-embellished pieces and bold prints — a theatrical presentation that left buyers and press praising their creativity.
Which international buyers and online retailers attended or showed interest at Fashion Week?
The event drew buyers and global e-tailers including Shopbop, my-wardrobe and Net-A-Porter, and buyers such as Vikki Kavanagh from Harvey Nichols. Their presence indicates overseas retailers were actively scouting Australian brands.
Which Australian labels were among the most talked-about on day one?
Alongside Romance Was Born, memorable labels on day one included Gail Sorronda, Gary Bigeni, Camilla, Manning Cartell and Ginger & Smart. Buyers also noted established names like Sass & Bide, Willow and Finders Keepers as part of the broader Australian fashion landscape.
What did industry figures say about the shows and Australian designers?
David Jones fashion director David Bush praised Romance Was Born as ‘darlings’ capable of extraordinary imagination. British blogger Susie Bubble remarked they can ‘evoke another time,’ and Shopbop buyer Jenny Fuchs called the show ‘such fun,’ specifically noting playful details like sequinned gorilla arms.
Where were the shows held and what was the atmosphere for attendees?
Many shows took place in a disused warehouse at Walsh Bay on Sydney Harbour. Attendees — bloggers, PRs, editors and buyers — climbed three rickety flights of stairs from a pier to see the colourful, theatrical presentations, leaving the audience smiling and impressed.
How can everyday investors interpret interest from international buyers at Australian Fashion Week?
Interest from international buyers and e-tailers at Fashion Week can be a signal of export potential and growing global awareness for Australian brands. While not a direct investment recommendation, such attention suggests designers are being considered for overseas retail channels, which can matter to retail-focused investors.
Which designers and shows should investors and followers watch next during the festival?
Australian Fashion Week continued with additional shows to watch including Zimmermann, Talulah, Michael Lo Sordo, Magdalena Velevska and Jayson Brunsdon — all of which could attract buyer interest and further highlight Australia’s fashion offering.