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Fashionably fast the key to Zara success

AMID the pervading gloom in the retail sector, one fashion chain is so dazzlingly successful its founder has overtaken Warren Buffett as the third-richest man in the world.
By · 9 Mar 2013
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9 Mar 2013
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AMID the pervading gloom in the retail sector, one fashion chain is so dazzlingly successful its founder has overtaken Warren Buffett as the third-richest man in the world.

Amancio Ortega, the major shareholder of fashion retailer Zara, was the fastest mover on the annual Forbes magazine rich list released this week. The personal wealth of the 76-year-old Spaniard grew by almost $20 billion to $57 billion in the past year on the back of Zara's record profits. Only Mexican telecommunications giant Carlos Slim and Microsoft founder Bill Gates are wealthier.

Zara has cracked the secret recipe for fashion retail success, and customers love it - but it is not a model that impresses all observers.

"Zara has really driven the formula for modern-day chains in that what they are capable of doing is getting on-trend fashion into store faster, higher quality and better priced than most of its competitors," said Karen Webster, chairwoman of the Australian Fashion Council. "They're able to get the Prada look in store before Prada does."

Since opening its first store in Galicia, Spain, in 1975, Zara (owned by fashion distributor Inditex) has grown to a worldwide success story that can lay claim to developing the philosophy of "fast fashion".

It's a model that relies on fast turnover of stock at its 1700 global stores to always keep the customer coming back to buy more.

While even the best-run traditional fashion retailers might have new stock in the store every four weeks, Zara has compressed that to between two and three weeks and is believed to launch 10,000 new designs a year. This model led one fashion industry executive to describe Zara as "possibly the most innovative and devastating retailer in the world".

Zara's success is based on not exactly copying but "editing" the latest catwalk looks from premium fashion houses, insiders said.

"Some of the pieces are very closely referenced to what we see on the runway in terms of design. So obviously the ethics behind that are a bit questionable," said Edwina McCann, editor of Vogue Australia. "It's not successful because it's a unique offering, they're just very good at editing what others have done, and they deliver the consumer trend at a very affordable price and very quickly."

Webster said: "Zara are really astute at scanning the trends, they know which designers to watch and they are prepared.

"[Before the designer shows] they already have a sense through their market intelligence about what kind of fabrications and colours are going to be happening."

Zara has also been very effective at streamlining manufacturing. "They basically have a manufacturing facility that's modelled on Toyota," said Carla Ferraro, senior research consultant at Australian Centre for Retail Studies.

"So the way they approach their manufacture of product is very efficient and very lean.

"Each individual store is linked directly to the designers in the company, so on any given day information is sent about the design from customers [through purchases] essentially to those designers in real time and products are altered pretty much in real time."

This helped Zara hit its famous two-week turnaround, giving customers new fashion almost instantly while rival stores look off the pace in comparison with stock that might be only one month old.

Zara has six stores in Australia, with two new stores opening this month in Canberra and Melbourne. A spokeswoman for Zara said its success was simple: "Zara always aims to provide its customers the best product at the best prices. We're very happy with how the Australian market has warmly welcomed the brand."
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Frequently Asked Questions about this Article…

Zara's 'fast fashion' model focuses on very rapid design-to-store cycles so customers keep returning. The company is believed to launch about 10,000 new designs a year and turns stock over in roughly two to three weeks, far quicker than the typical four-week cadence of many traditional retailers. For everyday investors, that model helps explain Zara's strong customer demand and record profits highlighted in the article.

Zara has streamlined manufacturing into a very lean operation modelled on Toyota, linking each store directly to in-house designers. Sales data and customer feedback are sent in near real time to designers, allowing product adjustments and fast replenishment. That efficient, responsive supply chain is a key reason Zara can get on-trend items into stores faster and at competitive prices.

Amancio Ortega, Zara's major shareholder, saw his personal wealth rise by almost $20 billion to $57 billion over the past year due to Zara's record profits, according to the article. For investors, that jump underscores the financial strength and profitability of Zara's parent business during the period covered.

While many traditional fashion retailers might introduce new stock about every four weeks, Zara compresses that cycle to between two and three weeks and is famous for a two-week turnaround in some cases. That faster cadence helps drive repeat visits and sales.

The article notes criticisms that Zara 'edits' the latest catwalk looks from premium fashion houses and that some pieces are closely referenced to runway designs. Vogue Australia’s editor described the ethics behind that approach as 'a bit questionable.' Investors may want to be aware that this aspect of Zara's model attracts debate even as it drives sales.

According to the article, Zara operates about 1,700 global stores. In Australia, the brand had six stores at the time of the article, with two new stores opening that month in Canberra and Melbourne, illustrating ongoing retail expansion in that market.

Zara is owned by fashion distributor Inditex, and Amancio Ortega is the major shareholder. The company's vertically integrated structure—combining design, manufacturing and store feedback loops—helps it execute the fast-fashion strategy investors read about in the article.

Key takeaways: Zara’s fast-fashion model, rapid product turnover and lean manufacturing have driven strong profits; the brand’s market intelligence and ability to put affordable, on-trend items in stores quickly make it disruptive to traditional retailers; and its global expansion (including recent Australian openings) underscores ongoing growth. These are operational strengths investors can watch when following Inditex or the retail sector, while remembering this summary is informational rather than investment advice.